Summer is officially here and for many that means finally having time to get back to reading. A variety of climbing-related books are available at the shop, ranging from training or nutrition books, to biographies of exceptional climbers or guide books for outdoor climbing.
On vacation, however, the best books are the ones that make us dream, that inspire us and make us see things differently. So I suggest a list of of climbing books for this summer that have the potential to completely change your outlook on yourself and the sport.
The Rock Warrior’s Way – Arno Ilgner (EN/FR)
The book that had the biggest impact on my climbing is without a doubt The Rock Warrior’s Way. When I first started climbing, people around me mostly climbed outdoors, especially in trad. With almost no sports background, I lacked self-confidence, I was extremely scared and these difficulties negatively tainted my experience. In the end, I had very little fun.
I discovered The Rock Warrior’s Way while desperately trying to embrace traditional rock climbing on my first trip to Squamish. I remember reading the book straight through, hooked on the revealing and directly applicable lessons of Arno Ilgner. Although my climbing level also increased, it is the changes that occurred in my mind, in my approach and in my attitude that stood out to me from this reading.
Divided into seven sections, The Rock Warrior’s Way offers a mental training program that breaks self-limiting traps that one often unconsciously sets in rock climbing. Arno Ilgner brilliantly addresses several themes such as ego, confidence and the tricky relationship we have with failure, while offering the tools to push forward that personal growth. What’s even more perfect is that these lessons are just as relevant to other areas of our lives.
If you want more, the same author has also published Espresso Lessons, a book that puts into practice the theories elaborated in The Rock Warrior’s Way.
Le Choix du Vide – Steph Davis (FR)
Climbing since the 1990s, Steph Davis is a symbol of dedication to climbing and one of the few women at that time who made the choice to live for adventure and outdoor sports. Practicing many forms of climbing, she collects a number of first female ascents of some of the most difficult routes in the world. In 2005, she became the first woman to climb the Salathé Wall, located on El Capitan, in Yosemite National Park, California. Graded 5.13b/c over 35 pitches, this ascent is one of the many accomplishments that makes her a pioneer in the history of the sport.
If her successful climbing career, her significant alpine climb and her experience as a base jumper are amazing, it is her resilience and her outlook on life that make Steph Davis so inspiring. She has always made the sacrifices necessary to make rock climbing her priority and will inspire you to question the importance you five to freedom and passion in your own life.
In her book Le Choix du Vide, we can feel her intense love for the sport and the determination that pushed her to reach summits never seen by a woman, like Mount Fitz Roy, in Patagonia. Her biography instills the courage of a climber who is also one of the most experienced in Free solo (climbing without protective equipment) and who has been through her fair share of challenges and grief.
If you want to know more about her before reading her biography, here is a video that might interest you :
Revelations – Jerry Moffatt (EN)
If the history of this sport and the first major climbing legends captivate you, this biography is for you.
Following the life of the colorful climber Jerry Moffatt, his book Revelations recounts the many climbs that made him an important figure in the sport and provides insight into the training methods created and used in the 1980s and 1990s. With mentors like John Bachar and Wolgang Güllich by his side, Jerry Moffatt quickly became one of the best, at a young age.
Over the years, he accumulated impressive climbs and established several firsts of the grade. Following an overuse injury that forced him to undergo surgery, Moffatt turned to the world of competition, which was seeing its early days in rock climbing. In 1989, he won the first ever World Cup in Leeds.
Jerry Moffatt has also published Mastermind, a book that aims to improve one’s mental game for climbing. You can read several testimonies and the advice of the best athletes in climbing.
The Hard Truth – Kris Hampton (EN)
The title of this book says it all. The Hard Truth introduces you to the most common mistakes that hinder your progress in climbing, although the truth is not always what you want to hear. In his short book, Kris Hampton basically answers the question we’ve all heard (and sometimes even asked ourselves) : What should I do to improve faster in climbing?
One of my favorite analogies from this book is “don’t squash the banana”, when it comes to engagement. The author says that a person who tries to “snap” a banana in half, will only be able to do so if they commit 100%, otherwise they will squash it. This analogy stuck in my mind and I still use it to this day when I notice in the moment just before doing a committing move, when doubts can sometimes set in. It is this work on yourself, in terms of getting rid of bad habits that The Hard Truth can offer.
If you are looking to become like that climbing beast you admire or the athlete that seems to have it all figured out and in order, this book is for you. Kris Hampton’s approach allows us to better understand our motivations and face the truth about the relevance, effectiveness and effort we truly put into our training. Plus, the author clearly explains some simple ways to make these changes. If you want it bad enough to do the work, this book have the potential to make you a better climber.
Some Stories : Lessons from the Edge of Business and Sport – Yvon Chouinard (EN)
Warning! Your list of travel destinations could be extended by this book 😉
Filled with short anecdotes and life lessons and dotted with magnificent photographs, this book from Yvon Chouinard is one in which we want to dive back in several times over the years. A legend in the outdoors community and the founder of the successful company Patagonia, Yvon Chouinard favors the title of storyteller, rather than author. It’s the art of storytelling that we see throughout his book.
Perfect for a dreamy summer reading and a typical coffee table book, Some Stories gives the impression of chatting one on one with the author. From rock climbing to entrepreneurship and from surfing to fly fishing, you’ll be treated to a collection of stories, articles and thoughts from a man who wore many hats in his life. You can read personal adventure stories, but also lessons about his career and the different sports he practices. As always, Yvon Chouinard pushes forward his love and above all his respect for nature, with wisdom.
This book is to be enjoyed bit by bit, but without moderation!
