As some of you may know, we have recently installed the new Kilter Board developed by Kilter Grips, a climbing hold company out of Boulder Colorado. The board consists of a vertical reclinable surface between 30 and 70 degrees filled with a multitude of climbing holds. Each hold is designed with a colorful band that illuminates its contour. The idea is to permit climbers to create and share boulders via the app specifically developed for the board. The intricate combination of a reclinable wall paired with ergonomically conceived holds, permits a climbing tool fit for climbers of all levels! Your classic V11 at 60 degrees may just be V3 at 30 degrees, so you might have to start thinking about that elbow grease purchase within the near future.
Our old fixed training board has now been put to rest with all its beautiful memories and boulders spread by word of mouth, may it rest in peace. Yet the arrival of the Kilter is much enthused by many of us! Whispers of Kilter dreams have been steadily increasing in volume recently and we are finally here! The reclinable board will be a new addition to our gym at Chabanel and will deliver much more freedom to meet the specific requirements and needs of every climber.
The size of the board we are receiving is 16 x 14 ft. Currently, Kilter only offers a generic layout of 12 x 12 ft. This format is entitled the Medium Launch Layout and incorporates the 8 x 12 layout within the 12 x 12. Kilter grips is still developing the bigger layout, so for now the board will not be completely full. We will be ready to install the extension when it becomes available.
Each user will need a smart phone with the ‘’Kilter Board’’ app You will be able to register your completed boulders and share them. In parallel, with the generic Kilter layout, we will have access to the Kilter database of boulders created by climber across the world.
WORKFLOW
The app, designed by Aurora Climbing in Canada, is available on IOS and Android. The intuitive application permits the quick creation of boulders and their addition the Kilter database.
To begin, open the app and start by adding a wall in the section dedicated to this effect. The model of the board is the Kilter Board, the size for now is 12 x 12, adjustable angle, choose the angle that the board is at (can be changed later), the hold layout is custom, the hold sub-layout is Standard, the hold set is screw ons. Add your custom name for the board to identify it (ex: Bloc Shop Kilter). Finally, choose your boulder and connect to the board!
Take note that once a boulder has been created and published from the boulder building section, it will no longer be editable. Four colors of holds are used to distinguish the different elements wanted by the setter and the problem.
Color Code:
Green – starting holds
Blue – hand and foot holds
Yellow – foot holds only
Purple – end hold
When you wish to sort through the available boulders, the filter tab will permit you to find boulders through different parametres ( level, setter, flagged, projects, etc.). We will also have a « Bloc Shop Setting » account with multiple boulders created by our own routesetters which you will be able to find in the setter tab soon. In the meantime, don’t hesitate to go check out the Kilter Studio setting account. (setter : Kilter Studio).
5 SUGGESTIONS FOR THE KILTER BOARD
Below you will find 5 exercises/games that can be used during your time spent on the board. Obviously, these are only suggestions and if you would rather just climb pre-made boulders ou simply build your own or with friends, that is totally cool too!
Add on : Determine your starting holds as a group with the color green. Decide in advance if you want feet to be free or only the same ones as your hands (defined by the blue holds). Each person adds a move in turn. If the move is completed, that next hold is added to the boulder with the color blue. Quick tip, try and decide on the move you want to add beforehand, instead of on the wall!
CLIMB (HORSE, PIG, CLIMBING, etc.) : As a group, chose or build a boulder in turn. If the person having chosen or built the boulder, succeeds on his first attempt, every next person must complete the boulder as well, if not he or she receives a letter of the chosen word. The first person to obtain all the letters of the word loses.
Comp simulation 5 on 5 off:
Chose 4 boulder between your project and flash level which you have never climbed before. 5 minutes for every boulder, 5 minutes of rest in between each.
If there are many of you, keep track of the number of tries and do a real competition simulation. Even add a “zone” hold if you want!
4 x 4 :
Chose 4 boulders between 60% and 70% of your maximum strength. In other words, a level you can generally succeed on your first try, but still is difficult. You must be able to complete the 4 boulders in a row without rest on your first try. Finish every boulder as fast as possible without rest in between. After every round, give yourself the same amount of rest time as spent on the wall doing all 4 boulders in a row. Repeat 4 times.
Repeater :
Chose or build a boulder between 60% and 70% of your maximum strength. In other words, a level you can generally succeed on your first try, but still is difficult. Make sure to choose a boulder that resembles one of your projects or has a consistent difficulty between each move.
Version 1
Do the boulder 4 times with one minute of rest between each try. Then take 5 minutes of rest. Repeat between 2 to 4 times (2-4 sets). If you note that the boulder is a little too hard or too easy, adjust the inclination of the Kilter up or down.
Version 2
Choose or build between 2 and 4 boulders before beginning the exercise. Do the first boulder 4 times with one minute of rest between each try. Then take 5 minutes of rest. Go on to the next boulder and repeat. If you note that the boulder is a little too hard or too easy, adjust the inclination of the Kilter up or down.
See you on the wall!