Few topics spark as much debate as nutrition. Should you be “keto,” vegan, Mediterranean, raw-food, fasting, or just eating candy to get through the day!? AAAAH! It’s confusing. Rather than telling you what to think, we’re offering some guidelines to help you figure out what’s best for you.
Let’s clarify one thing right away: if you feel like nutrition is a settled issue and researchers and scientists know exactly what to eat and in what proportion… think again. Nutrition science is imperfect, and influencers can stretch study results to say almost anything. As a result, many questions around food and nutrition are still being explored—but there are a few things with broad consensus.
Another point to keep in mind: there’s a lot, really a lot, of variability. Not everyone reacts the same way to every food or every diet. Genetic makeup, health history, gut microbiome—all these factors can influence what works best for you. Your climbing partner swears by a ketogenic diet? That may work for them, possibly due to genetic reasons, for instance. But maybe you wouldn’t last 72 hours eating that way without feeling a little off. So, remember that you’ll need to—whether for better or worse—experiment a bit to see what works for you.
A good tip: in a podcast I was listening to recently, a coach, Tom Herbert, shared an interesting way of thinking about nutrition, seeing it as a kind of weather map for his needs. Rather than only thinking of nutritional needs day-by-day, consider the idea that the body doesn’t reset its needs every 24 hours. Another interesting aspect he mentioned: think about how what you eat today could affect you tomorrow or the next day. No need to develop an instant orthorexia obsession—it’s just the idea that if you get enough carbs, fats, and proteins today, maybe it’ll help you sleep better tonight, so tomorrow you’ll feel fresher and more ready to grip small holds. Or, fueling up well after a tough workout could help you recover faster and get back to peak performance.
The Basics
Needs will vary: If you’re doing a half-day of bouldering, a full day of sport climbing, or a week-long high-altitude expedition, your food needs won’t be exactly the same. Your preferences will also affect what you choose to eat and when. It’s better not to compare yourself to others!
Balanced meals: An idea that seems widely agreed upon is aiming for balanced meals. What does that mean? Have a meal where you have a fairly similar proportion of macronutrients—carbohydrates, fats, and proteins. You can adjust these proportions depending on your needs. And eat your vegetables. They’re good for you.
Before, during, and after: Nutritionists seem to agree on one thing: 30 minutes before physical activity, having a good source of carbs will give you more energy. During your session, go for quick energy sources—fruits, gels, things that are easy to digest. If you’re doing a full day—outdoor or indoor—it could be a good idea to plan a complete meal, even if it means taking a long break. But then again, maybe you won’t feel the need. After exercising? No need to gulp down a protein shake right after finishing your last attempt of the day. It’s a good idea to eat something, ideally with carbs and proteins, within a two-hour window after working out.
Yes, protein: CONTROVERSY! PROTEIN! Ok, let’s stay calm. Proteins are essential macronutrients everyone needs. They help rebuild muscles but also serve many other functions in the body. How much do you need? You’ll find all sorts of recommendations, but around 1.5 grams of protein per kg per day seems like a good target. Not sure if you’re close to that target? Log what you eat for a few days in an app like Cronometer to get an approximate idea. Research also suggests that there’s no added benefit beyond 1.6 grams of protein per kg per day. Also, as we age, our protein needs increase because the body doesn’t absorb it as well, and maintaining muscle mass becomes more challenging.
Find a routine: Just like a warm-up routine, once you’ve tried a few things that work well for you, it’s a good idea to stick to the same “recipe” for each outing. Why? Because you’ll know what to expect in terms of energy and digestion, and you’ll avoid unpleasant surprises. Cutting an outdoor session short because your stomach isn’t thrilled about the curry you packed? Kind of awkward.
And fasting? Some people may be interested in fasting or intermittent fasting for various reasons. Again, it may work for you but not your neighbor. Currently, research suggests that there’s no advantage to training (or climbing) without eating anything.
Resources for Navigating the Maze
TikTok and YouTube aren’t necessarily the best sources of information for all the nuances that nutrition requires. Here are some suggestions if you want to deepen your knowledge or better understand what you should be doing.
The “bookworm” option: Unfortunately, there aren’t many resources in French. In English, however, there are some interesting books on the topic, notably Nutrition for Climbers: Fuel for the Send. Several podcasts have episodes that discuss nutrition, such as The Average Climber Podcast (with a certified nutritionist, no less).
The “Tony Robbins” option: If you’ve got a thick wallet, consult a nutritionist who can tailor recommendations to your individual needs, objectives, and constraints. There are, of course, plenty of them, especially in the United States more so than in Canada.
The podcast Alimente ton sport, by sports nutritionist Audrey Bélanger-Leclair (holder of a master’s degree from the International Olympic Committee).
The Instagram page of sports nutritionist Catherine Bélanger (also holder of a master’s degree from the International Olympic Committee).
The Instagram page of the duo Gourmand Gourmand (by Nicolas Leduc-Savard, sports nutritionist, and Xavier Desharnais, former professional athlete).
The Instagram page of Myriam Beaudry, who covers more general topics in nutrition, but also on nutrition.