In the current context, climbing trips outside the country are no longer possible. For those who are desperate to discover new boulderning playgrounds, our beautiful country offers many possibilities. The hottest bouldering destination in Canada is certainly Squamish. Every summer, hundreds of Quebecers head to British Columbia to take advantage of the thousands of boulders at the Chief’s base. Obviously, if you’ve never been, a visit to Squamish is in order. On the other hand, for those who feel a little adventurous, some lesser-known bouldering destinations could offer you a greater change of scenery as well as an equally pleasant climbing experience. Here are my suggestions for planning your bouldering in Canada.
NOVA SCOTIA
Dover Island
Probably Nova Scotia’s best-known bouldering area, Dover Island is one of a kind. Located in the Atlantic Ocean, you will need to access it by boat. You will be charged $20 per person (minimum $ 80) to get there. Dover Island has the largest concentration of quality boulders in the province, formed by abrasive granite. No matter what your climbing style, you will find several problems that suit your preferences.
Apart from climbing, you won’t find anything else on this island. It will therefore be necessary to bring everything for your stay.
For more information, visit Climb Nova Scotia’s facebook page, or their website.
Photo by Kim Graham
Photo by Kim Graham
A classic of Dover Island, Exciter (V7).
Land of Confusion
Land of Confusion is not very well known, but it offers impeccable bouldering quality. The granite is VERY abrasive, but the problems are magnificent.
The area got its name because it is quite easy to get lost. You can walk there for hours without finding the boulders you are looking for, lost in a sea of green and fir trees that stretch as far as the eye can see. Located about an hour from Halifax, LOC will surprise you with its coastal horizons and fresh air. If you do not have the opportunity to climb there with regulars, the Mobeta site will provide you with all the information you need to find the boulders that motivate you.
This region, although far from the major centers, is a must for all bouldering fanatics. Avoid going there during mosquito season and everything will be perfect. Several other bouldering areas with breathtaking scenery can be found near Halifax. A long trip to this region is never in vain!
Photo Tim Banfield.
Typical LOC approach. Photo by Tim Banfield.
Here Louis Parkinson climbs a few classic on Dover Island. He also climbs Carbosaurus (V11) at Land of Confusion at the end of the video.
ONTARIO
Halfway Log Dump
When it comes to Ontario, many are familiar with bouldering in Niagara Glen. On the other hand, if you want to get off the beaten track, Halfway Log Dump offers you a fairly magical bouldering experience. The particularity of this place is its majestic landscape. The boulders are located on the Bruce Peninsula, approximately 9 hours from Montreal. The quality of the climbing is good, but Halfway Log Dump seems more like a vacation destination to get away from your daily life. You will climb on the coast of the Georgian Bay, an extension of Lake Huron, alongside a dreamy turquoise water, although very cold.
There are problems between V0 and V10, but most of the problems so called “moderates”, i.e. between V3 and V7. You will climb on limestone, offering a climbing focused on “slopers” that’s very easy on the skin. Let’s say it is a welcome change if you are used to painful climbing sessions in the Laurentians.
I’ll let the photos speak for themselves, but HLD is the perfect destination for a sunny weekend. Since the boulders are on the shores of the Bruce Peninsula, it is best to inquire about the tides in order to know which boulders may be partially submerged.
It is possible to buy the guidebook on the internet, otherwise a free version can be found here.
A climber on the “Whale” boulder.
Bruce Peninsula’s paradise landscape. Photo T.Wurdemann.
Colombie-Britannique
The Boulderfields – Kelowna
The Boulderfields is a bouldering area in the Okanagan Valley, approximately 4:30 hours east of Vancouver. This region is relatively new for bouldering. Over the past two or three years, there has been a sharp increase in travelers whose final destination is the Boulderfields of Kelowna. Locals talk about it as a world class bouldering destination. There are over 1000 established boulders, with definite potential for more. You’ll need more than a weekend to climb there.
The best time to climb is from April to November, with better conditions in spring and fall obviously. On the other hand, if bouldering is usually difficult to practice during the summer, the high altitude and the shaded areas make bouldering possible without too much discomfort.
You can find more information on Andy White’s blog.
Classic bouldering movie showcasing the Boulderfields.
Tie my rope(V1), a classic line at the Boulderfields. Photo: Clayton Arnall