{"id":19999,"date":"2024-12-10T14:23:54","date_gmt":"2024-12-10T14:23:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blocshop.com\/bloc-shop-v2\/nutrition-for-bouldering\/"},"modified":"2024-12-10T14:23:54","modified_gmt":"2024-12-10T14:23:54","slug":"nutrition-for-bouldering","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blocshop.com\/en\/nutrition-for-bouldering\/","title":{"rendered":"Nutrition for bouldering"},"content":{"rendered":"

Few topics spark as much debate as nutrition. Should you be \u201cketo,\u201d vegan, Mediterranean, raw-food, fasting, or just eating candy to get through the day!? AAAAH! It\u2019s confusing. Rather than telling you what to think, we\u2019re offering some guidelines to help you figure out what\u2019s best for you.<\/span><\/p>\n

Let\u2019s clarify one thing right away: if you feel like nutrition is a settled issue and researchers and scientists know exactly what to eat and in what proportion… think again. Nutrition science is imperfect, and influencers can stretch study results to say almost anything. As a result, many questions around food and nutrition are still being explored\u2014but there are a few things with broad consensus.<\/span><\/p>\n

Another point to keep in mind: there\u2019s a lot, really a lot, of variability. Not everyone reacts the same way to every food or every diet. Genetic makeup, health history, gut microbiome\u2014all these factors can influence what works best for you. Your climbing partner swears by a ketogenic diet? That may work for them, possibly due to genetic reasons, for instance. But maybe you wouldn\u2019t last 72 hours eating that way without feeling a little off. So, remember that you\u2019ll need to\u2014whether for better or worse\u2014experiment a bit to see what works for you.<\/span><\/p>\n

A good tip: in a podcast I was listening to recently, a coach, Tom Herbert, shared an interesting way of thinking about nutrition, seeing it as a kind of weather map for his needs. Rather than only thinking of nutritional needs day-by-day, consider the idea that the body doesn\u2019t reset its needs every 24 hours. Another interesting aspect he mentioned: think about how what you eat today could affect you tomorrow or the next day. No need to develop an instant orthorexia obsession\u2014it’s just the idea that if you get enough carbs, fats, and proteins today, maybe it\u2019ll help you sleep better tonight, so tomorrow you\u2019ll feel fresher and more ready to grip small holds. Or, fueling up well after a tough workout could help you recover faster and get back to peak performance.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Basics<\/h2>\n

Needs will vary: If you\u2019re doing a half-day of bouldering, a full day of sport climbing, or a week-long high-altitude expedition, your food needs won\u2019t be exactly the same. Your preferences will also affect what you choose to eat and when. It\u2019s better not to compare yourself to others!<\/span><\/p>\n

Balanced meals: An idea that seems widely agreed upon is aiming for balanced meals. What does that mean? Have a meal where you have a fairly similar proportion of macronutrients\u2014carbohydrates, fats, and proteins. You can adjust these proportions depending on your needs. And eat your vegetables. They\u2019re good for you.<\/span><\/p>\n

Before, during, and after: Nutritionists seem to agree on one thing: 30 minutes before physical activity, having a good source of carbs will give you more energy. During your session, go for quick energy sources\u2014fruits, gels, things that are easy to digest. If you\u2019re doing a full day\u2014outdoor or indoor\u2014it could be a good idea to plan a complete meal, even if it means taking a long break. But then again, maybe you won\u2019t feel the need. After exercising? No need to gulp down a protein shake right after finishing your last attempt of the day. It\u2019s a good idea to eat something, ideally with carbs and proteins, within a two-hour window after working out.<\/span><\/p>\n

Yes, protein: CONTROVERSY! PROTEIN! Ok, let\u2019s stay calm. Proteins are essential macronutrients everyone needs. They help rebuild muscles but also serve many other functions in the body. How much do you need? You\u2019ll find all sorts of recommendations, but around 1.5 grams of protein per kg per day seems like a good target. Not sure if you\u2019re close to that target? Log what you eat for a few days in an app like Cronometer to get an approximate idea. Research also suggests that there\u2019s no added benefit beyond 1.6 grams of protein per kg per day. Also, as we age, our protein needs increase because the body doesn\u2019t absorb it as well, and maintaining muscle mass becomes more challenging.<\/span><\/p>\n

Find a routine: Just like a warm-up routine, once you\u2019ve tried a few things that work well for you, it\u2019s a good idea to stick to the same \u201crecipe\u201d for each outing. Why? Because you\u2019ll know what to expect in terms of energy and digestion, and you\u2019ll avoid unpleasant surprises. Cutting an outdoor session short because your stomach isn\u2019t thrilled about the curry you packed? Kind of awkward.<\/span><\/p>\n

And fasting? Some people may be interested in fasting or intermittent fasting for various reasons. Again, it may work for you but not your neighbor. Currently, research suggests that there\u2019s no advantage to training (or climbing) without eating anything.<\/span><\/p>\n

Resources for Navigating the Maze<\/h2>\n

TikTok and YouTube aren\u2019t necessarily the best sources of information for all the nuances that nutrition requires. Here are some suggestions if you want to deepen your knowledge or better understand what you should be doing.<\/span><\/p>\n

The \u201cbookworm\u201d option: Unfortunately, there aren\u2019t many resources in French. In English, however, there are some interesting books on the topic, notably <\/span>Nutrition for Climbers: Fuel for the Send<\/span><\/i>. Several podcasts have episodes that discuss nutrition, such as <\/span>The Average Climber Podcast<\/span><\/i> (with a certified nutritionist, no less).<\/span><\/p>\n

The \u201cTony Robbins\u201d option: If you\u2019ve got a thick wallet, consult a nutritionist who can tailor recommendations to your individual needs, objectives, and constraints. There are, of course, plenty of them, especially in the United States more so than in Canada.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

The podcast Alimente ton sport<\/a>, by sports nutritionist Audrey B\u00e9langer-Leclair (holder of a master’s degree from the International Olympic Committee).<\/p>\n

The Instagram page of sports nutritionist Catherine B\u00e9langer<\/a> (also holder of a master’s degree from the International Olympic Committee).<\/p>\n

The Instagram page of the duo Gourmand Gourmand<\/a> (by Nicolas Leduc-Savard, sports nutritionist, and Xavier Desharnais, former professional athlete).<\/p>\n

The Instagram page of Myriam Beaudry<\/a>, who covers more general topics in nutrition, but also on nutrition.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Few topics spark as much debate as nutrition. Should you be \u201cketo,\u201d vegan, Mediterranean, raw-food, fasting, or just eating candy to get through the day!? AAAAH! It\u2019s confusing. 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