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This week, we spoke with Yves Gravelle. He is recognized for his physical prowess in climbing and his finger strength, but also for the strength competitions in which he has been dominating in the past year.<\/p>\n
I\u2019ve been climbing for over 20 years. I have spent several years participating in bouldering competitions and have had the opportunity to be part of the Canadian National Team several times. For the past few years, I have focused more on outdoor climbing, developing new bouldering sectors and making first ascents. I also coach the competitive team at Coyote Rock Gym.<\/p>\n
Just over a year. I was fortunate to represent Canada at the World Championship in Russia last year where I won 3 gold medals and set 3 world records. In October, I participated in an International Arm lifting competition called the King Kong grip challenge. It\u2019s a competition that takes place the same day in 25 sports sites on 4 continents. I finished first place in the -73kg category and received the distinction of the strongest fingers in the world relative to my weight.<\/p>\n
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I have always loved and put a particular emphasis on maximum strength, finger strength and body tension. I am very competitive with myself and I never set myself a limit in training. There is always room for improvement and a new personal best. That\u2019s why I like training. It\u2019s easy to measure progress and results.<\/p>\n
I\u2019m not sure how much genetics played a role in my performance. One thing is certain, I worked very hard for my results. I am constantly looking for new training methods to improve myself.<\/p>\n
I think the most important thing is to vary the training, volume and intensity. It is important to do strength tests every 3-4 months in order to assess your progress and properly structure your training. For maximum strength and fingers I like to keep my workouts short. I always end up fresh and try to avoid high intensity training when I\u2019m tired. I never train until exhaustion and I take full recoveries between sets (about 5 min). For example, if I can hold a crimp for a maximum of 10 seconds, I would do 4-6 seconds hangs during training.<\/p>\n
In recent years, armlifting has greatly influenced my climbing training. I do a lot of deadlift style finger training. It allows me to structure the intensity more precisely and do repetitions similar to power lifting.<\/p>\n
Here is an example of strength training for deadlift style fingers.<\/p>\n
1 S\u00e9rie x 6 repetitions @50% 1RM<\/p>\n
1 S\u00e9rie x 6 repetitions @60% 1RM<\/p>\n
1 S\u00e9rie x 6 repetitions @65% 1RM<\/p>\n
4 series x 4 repetitions @70% 1RM<\/p>\n
1 S\u00e9rie x 6 repetitions @55% 1RM<\/p>\n
1 S\u00e9rie x 6 repetitions @65% 1RM<\/p>\n
1 S\u00e9rie x 6 repetitions @70% 1RM<\/p>\n
4 S\u00e9ries x 2 repetitions @80% 1RM<\/p>\n
1 S\u00e9rie x 6 repetitions @55% 1RM<\/p>\n
1 S\u00e9rie x 6 repetitions @65% 1RM<\/p>\n
1 S\u00e9rie x 6 repetitions @75% 1RM<\/p>\n
4 S\u00e9ries x 2 repetitions @85% 1RM<\/p>\n
1 S\u00e9rie x 6 repetitions @50% 1RM<\/p>\n
1 S\u00e9rie x 6 repetitions @60% 1RM<\/p>\n
1 S\u00e9rie x 6 repetitions @65% 1RM<\/p>\n
90% of my training is done at home. My favorite tools for climbing are the micro-rods and Digit\u2019s V-Mobs, the Beastmaker 2000 beam and climbing on my side.<\/p>\n
My first ascent from Miall\u2019s Ahead to Kanata -Tremblant is among the most memorable.<\/p>\n