For newcomers and intermediate boulderers alike, deciphering the lexicon of holds can sometimes seem as dizzying as the walls themselves. This article is designed to guide you through the different holds categories that cover the walls of indoor climbing gyms, shedding light on the terms used and offering a few useful tips. Whether you’re looking for a better understanding of crimps, slopers, pinches and other indoor climbing gems, or want to master the singular vocabulary of the climbing community, you’re at the right place!

1. JUGS

Jugs are large, easy-to-grip holds. Reassuring, they are often used to ease the start and finish of bouldering problems and as resting points. The technique for grabbing a jug is quite simple: just put your whole hand on it and squeeze, making sure you’re well positioned. Rather than simply pulling on the grip, use your legs to generate power, reducing the pressure on your arms. Keep your arms slightly bent to conserve energy and maintain a low center of gravity for maximum stability. Jugs are ideal for dynamic movements (dynos), so be sure to plan your trajectory before you start.

2. CRIMPS

Crimps are probably the most common holds on V3 problems and higher in bouldering gyms. Narrow, often small and flat, they require great finger strength. Climbers need precision to hold on to these thin edges. To grip a crimp, you generally use an arched position with the fingers bent into a hook-like shape over the hold. The first phalanges are used to hold it firmly. Keep your elbows slightly bent to avoid excessive strain on the joints.

As a general rule, only the four long fingers are used for this type of grip. Note that it is possible to add the thumb on top of the other fingers to get more strength in your crimp, by tightening the hand even more, but bear in mind that the risk of injury is greater with this technique. In fact, frequent use of the thumb in this way when the tendons in the hands are not sufficiently developed can potentially lead to injury. Remain vigilant.

3. SLOPERS

Slopers are usually more advanced holds and are quite rare in V2 and lower problems at Bloc Shop. Sloping and rounded, they are much harder to grip than jugs. They require strength in the arms and wrists, unlike crimps which require mainly finger strength.

The key technique for slopers may take some time to master and lies in the finesse of the touch. Rather than gripping them firmly, use your fingers to adhere delicately to their surface. It’s best to grasp a sloper by maximizing the contact surface, i.e. by keeping your fingers open and flat. Remember to use your thumb when gripping, keeping it away from the four long fingers. Position yourself correctly under the sloper to hold it securely. By positioning yourself directly under the grip, your weight is better distributed over your feet and hands. This technique reduces tension and fatigue on the fingers, applies more effective pressure between the hand and the surface of the grip, optimizes friction, improves stability and reduces the risk of slipping.

Slopers are always worth brushing to remove accumulated chalk, ensuring a better grip for climbers.

4. PINCHES

Pinches are wide, often symmetrical grips that rely primarily on the grip strength of the fingers and forearms to maintain a firm hold. To grasp a pinch, the hand is positioned as if pinching the grip between the thumb on one side and the other fingers on the other. Adopt a firm grip while being aware of weight distribution. Pinches often require a specific hand position, so adjust your fingers accordingly.

5. POCKETS

Pockets are holds designed to receive a single finger, two fingers or three fingers. This type of grip is similar to a crimp, but only one or a few fingers are used, which puts even more pressure and weight on the tendons and pulleys of the finger(s) in question. You will usually find this type of holds on more advanced problems.

6. VOLUMES

A volume is not a hold per se, but rather a geometric structure generally fixed to the climbing wall with the aim of changing its angle and inclination. They come in a variety of shapes (cubes, prisms, pyramids, cylinders, etc.) and can be small or large and imposing. Grips are frequently added to volumes to improve grip or to vary the angle at which the grips are held.

There are many ways to climb a volume, but the most common technique is to grip the edges. Edges offer a wide contact surface and allow the whole hand to be used for gripping. In this sense, they are similar to slopers, but in right-angle form, and are much more demanding on the wrists. Look for hand positioning to maximize grip, remember to use your thumb properly, and focus on stability by distributing your weight evenly.

Note: The word “jib” is sometimes used to describe adding a small hold to a volume or larger hold to make them easier to grip and less slippery.

7. FOOTHOLDS

Footholds are usually smaller and designed to accommodate the tip of the climbing shoes. They require great precision, as they support the weight of the body by concentrating pressure on the front of the foot. Balance, precise foot placement, judicious weight distribution and ankle flexibility are all crucial to taking full advantage of these holds. Coordination between hands and feet as well as anticipating movements also contributes to greater agility on the bouldering walls.

Footholds generally fall into two sub-categories: incut footholds and smears. Incut footholds are more classic foot holds on which it’s easy to stand on the tip of your toes.

Smears are more slippery, but usually offer a larger contact surface. Use the whole front of the shoe, not just the tip of the toes, to maximize the contact surface between sole and grip, and try to maintain constant pressure. After that, it’s all about body positioning and confidence in your foot.

Whether you’re drawn to comforting jugs, delicate crimps, complex slopers, demanding pinches or creative volumes, each type of hold contributes to the diversity and complexity of bouldering. Explore, climb and discover the nuances of each hold to elevate your practice to new heights.

All climbers, whether beginners, intermediate or experienced, should explore these different categories of holds to perfect their skills. It’s perfectly normal to be better at certain types of gripping, but it remains essential to work on your weak points until they become strong points in order to progress in your practice. Our online store offers training equipment targeting specific strengthening to help improve your performance. 

If you’d like to optimize your bouldering technique by booking a one-to-one session with our experienced coaches, click here.