On a weekday evening, you’re sitting quietly, waiting for your turn to climb. A few unsuccessful attempts and your tired look attracts a gentleman with big arms: “No Pain, No Gain! “. Perhaps, this gentleman could be right? You should push yourself mentally and physically to become stronger, and maybe send this bloody problem! Well, you are probably not an international level athlete, so moderation often has much better taste.
Since bouldering is a very demanding sport for the body, you have to take some precautions if you want to climb well in your 40’s. With time, one acquires a certain wisdom, not without a few accidents of course. Thus, I offer some simple and general advice which, I hope, will provide you with this small dose of wisdom in order to avoid injuries.
1. WARM-UP PROPERLY
If you think you can climb regularly without warming up, here’s what you should read first.
2. TAKE IT EASY!
Even if intensity is generally needed, you can not push your body to failure each climbing session. It is necessary to know how to measure intensity over time, as well as during your bouldering sessions. If you are tired after a few hours of climbing, it’s a bad idea to run laps on easy problems. You’ll increase the probability of straining your muscles. In the same way, if you climb for two consecutive days, you have to distribute your training accordingly. It is usually suggested to focus on difficulty/intensity on the first day, and on volume training the second day. It is also imperative to take good rests between attempts on hard boulders. In the end, the general rule is to take the time to do things right; you will also learn to manage your patience, which is an asset at all times!
3. GET SOME REST
To become stronger, you must take rest. One could even say that rest is more beneficial than climbing if you want to increase your level. Thus, if it is important to rest between attempts, it is also necessary to give a chance to your body to regain its fuel between two intense sessions. It is usually advised to take two days off after an intense bouldering training. If you are traveling and time is limited, a very popular schedule is “2 days on / 1 day off”. If you concentrate your efforts on one or two problems in particular every day, you should avoid major injuries (only if you listen to your body, of course!).
4. PRACTICE OTHER SPORTS
Want to be a climbing machine? Do something else too! Try yoga, hiking, running, playing hockey or basketball. It’s good for your body and your mind. Without even realizing it, you will develop muscles and abilities that will come in handy in your climbing. Many injuries occur due to muscle imbalance, so this is one more reason to diversify your activities. Otherwise, try to finish your climbing sessions by training antagonist muscles, it will make a big difference. I guess I’m the perfect example of a poorly shod shoemaker, but we cannot say that I was able avoid injuries over the years. This is one more incentive to integrate these tips into your daily climbing routine.
5. STAY CAUTIOUS WITH RISKY MOVEMENTS
Obviously, some movements are more risky than others. What does “risky” mean? These movements push the joints towards their physical limit. Small crimps are dangerous for tendons and pulleys, dynamic movements for fingers and shoulders, heel hooks for hamstring muscles, compression movements for biceps and shoulders, among others. Therefore, we can understand why a dynamic movement, in compression, on small holds, will exponentially increase the risk of injury. Thus, it is always good to take time to analyze the movements of a coveted problem before attempting it.
If you think that a risk is present, it is better to try the risky movement in isolation before trying the boulder problem from the start. Keep in mind that a foot can always slip accidentally. This is why it’s important to be in control as much as possible, even during dynamic movements. Also try to avoid sharp holds, be careful with pockets, and pay attention to your wrists during repetitive movements on bad slopers.
6. TAKE TIME TO HEAL YOUR INJURIES
Some injuries, such as tendon injuries, can take several months to heal. If you think you are injured, even in a very minor way, you must take the necessary precautions. Too often climbers let their minor injuries become major ones that will keep them on the couch for several months.
For many, these tips will seem obvious or even futile. Even if climbers usually know about these general advice, most of them do not act accordingly. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and if you want to continue climbing well your 40’s, it’s important to start as soon as possible!
