There’s one thing that can make you incredibly strong, or suddenly very weak and unable to climb. And it has nothing to do with your muscles or your fingers… It’s what’s between your ears. As climbing season kicks into full gear, here are a few approaches to help you tame your thoughts so you can climb harder, or simply enjoy climbing more.
Paralyzed by fear?
Depending on the context, fear can be a good advisor or, on the contrary, hold you back. When you’re on the last moves of a highball, several meters above your last piece of protection, it’s perfectly normal to feel fear. And if you want to do things like that, gradual exposure to experiences that give you an adrenaline rush is the way to go. Even indoors, it’s not uncommon to see people get scared when they reach the top of a problem. So take it step by step: pay attention to your body and your self-talk while climbing, ask for feedback on risks, practice falls (indoors, outdoor bouldering, or on rope). And of course, of course: commit only when you are aware of the risks.
If you’re trying to send a boulder or a route and you have a reasonable idea of the risks, but your mind keeps telling you you’re about to take a huge whipper, instead of fighting that thought, try a simple phrase: “Just one more move.” That’s it. Touch the next hold, then repeat: “Just one more move.” This way, you focus on the task at hand (climbing) instead of the thousand scenarios your brain is generating.
Visualization as a tool
There’s one scientifically proven way to climb stronger without doing a single pull-up: visualization. Picture in your mind all the moves of the boulder or route you’re working on. Take it further: the texture of the holds under your fingers, where your left foot needs to go, the feeling of the next move. All of this helps prepare both body and mind for the climb. Studies show that athletes who use visualization perform better and are less likely to feel anxious. A winning combo!
Performance anxiety
The catch with wanting to climb hard is that you can also put a lot of pressure on yourself. Sometimes to the point of being paralyzed. “I absolutely have to flash this problem.” “Why don’t I climb as hard as George or Henrietta?” “I should have been able to send that route in three tries.” Rumination like this can ruin one or several sessions! And social media can make it feel like everyone climbs V17, except you. But no: everyone fails in climbing, it’s part of the process. Compare yourself only to yourself: every body, every person is different. Also, make sure to remind yourself why you love climbing. Maybe it’s the problem-solving, the feeling of well-being on the wall, the flow of movement or simply spending good times with friends.
Keeping a journal
It’s not for everyone, but some people might benefit from keeping a small climbing journal. Write down the “quality” of your session, how you felt, what you enjoyed and what you didn’t. It can help you better understand and repeat the things you enjoy in climbing.
Side quests
A little nod to video game fans. Don’t want to bang your head against the same problem, whether indoors or outdoors? Find yourself a side quest that’s a bit easier. Throw some attempts at your tough project of the day, but also spend time on your secondary project. This way, you’ll challenge yourself while still making progress, whether on your main or secondary goal. Which, of course, helps keep you motivated! It’s like hacking your brain…
Don’t forget you’re human
Today you thought you were in great shape and ready to crush everything… but instead, you’re falling on problems you’ve already sent, feeling like a sack of potatoes trying to mantle onto a slab? I feel like that regularly… Maybe you had a rough day, you’re dealing with stress, didn’t get enough sleep, didn’t eat enough before your session, or maybe your cat is ignoring you. Climbing doesn’t happen in a vacuum, apart from the rest of your life. Be compassionate with yourself. Maybe jot down the things that help you have a better session and try to repeat them. But above all, enjoy climbing.