Buying climbing shoes isn’t the most obvious process to go through. With so many models available, the decision of which climbing shoe suits you best can be tedious. Here at Bloc Shop, we have more many different models and shapes of shoes coming from a variety of brands. As a means of making the choice more clear on what is the best option for you, here are 6 tips for being a more astute climbing shoe connoisseur.
1. KNOWING YOUR CLIMBER PROFILE
The first tip and the most important one is the understanding of what type of climber you are. You can always buy a super high praised shoe acclaimed by reviews and your peers, but if this one does not fit your climber profil, the experience you will have with said shoe could be quite negative. The type of climber you are is defined by multiple factors such as being mainly a boulderer or route climber, your level of experience from beginner, intermediate to expert, climbing inside or outside,etc. All these factors contribute to your climbing profile. You might as well be someone who dabbles in everything and this changes your climbing profile just as much, as there are shoes that are considered more all around shoes. Every shoe has a type of climber in mind, so when you choose a shoe make sure the description of that shoe suits your climbing profile.
2. DECIDING ON THE LEVEL OF AGGRESSIVITY OF YOUR SHOE
The biggest characteristic that you can see at a first glance on a shoe is whether it is aggressive or not. This refers to how arched a shoe is. An aggressive shoe is very arched and a neutral shoe will be much more flat. The belief that a more aggressive shoe generates automatically better climbing performance is not necessarily true. A flatter shoe is usually better suited for angles that are less steep and where you must rely more on standing on small holds, notably when you are edging. A flat shoe has usually a single piece of rubber running from the front to the back of the shoe, providing more support to the toes on small holds. On the contrary, a more aggressive shoe adds to the adherence of steep angles, where your foot needs to be able to pull on the holds to stay on the wall. The pronounced arch will help maintain the toes down turned and help with that pulling motion.
Another factor to consider, if you are a first time climber, your foot might still be adapting to standing only on your toes, so a flat soled shoe will give you that extra support as you learn how to climb.
3. CHOOSING THE STIFFNESS OF THE RUBBER
The rubber of climbing shoes has always been a polarizing subject. Every brand often boasts about his or hers new and optimal rubber technology. The point here is not to go into detail on each type of rubber, but identify how the stiffness of your rubber will affect your climbing. The more the rubber is soft, the more adhesive it is and the more the rubber is stiff, the more it supports your feet on small edges. A softer shoe is usually better on volumes and boulders that require a lot of friction. A stiffer shoe permits better movement on tiny holds where all the weight of your body concentrated on a small sliver of your toes.
It is also important to understand that a soft rubber will also affect the amount of support your foot has just like the level of aggressivity of the shoe. If you are buying your first or second shoe, staying away from the softer shoes can be a wise decision, but every case is different. This goes as well for anybody who has been climbing for a while and still has difficulty with their feet on small holds. This might be an indication that your shoes are too soft and you need a thicker and stiffer rubber.
4. TAKING THE NECESSARY TIME TO TRY THE DIFFERENT ALTERNATIVES THAT MATCH YOUR PROFILE AND PREFERENCES
Don’t hesitate to try 3-4 pairs of shoes that match what you are looking for. If you pass here at Bloc Shop, it is always a pleasure to sit and discuss the different alternatives that might suit your needs. It is true that internet reviews and your friends recommendations are good ways of evaluating the different shoes available, but knowing one’s foot is just as important. Taking the time to try a few pairs of shoes with similar profiles can help find the shoe that has the best shape to suit your foot. Every company and model has differences in the width of their shoes, the depth of the heels, the shapes of the toe boxes, etc.
5. ESTABLISHING WHAT SIZE YOUR SHOE SHOULD BE
The size of your shoe is one of the most difficult decisions to make, especially since it is often not the same size as your street shoe size. The ideal scenario is a shoe in which your toes are slightly bent and where the toes won’t move will climbing.
When buying, it is normal that the size you need changes based on the model. What you have to keep in mind is that a shoe that is made out of leather will often stretch up to a half size, but synthetic shoes will stretch very little.
6. UNDERSTANDING ASYMMETRY
The last tip is based on the level of asymmetry. This means the amount your shoe curves when you look at it from above. The more the curve is strong, the more the weight is accentuated on your big toe. Having more weight and power on your big toe will add to the precision of your foot, but this will also affect the comfort of your shoe. The decision lies in your hands on which you prefer!
There you have it, 6 tips to keep in mind next time you buy shoes. The golden rule when choosing a shoe though is that there is no perfect shoe for all. The best shoe is the one that best suits your needs and foot.
To give you an idea of our shoes selection, visit our online store: shop.blocshop.com
